Unlocking The Oriental Aesthetics, Song Brocade Revitalizes And Starts A "New National Tide"

China is the first country in the world to invent silk weaving. From the legendary Lei Zu sericulture to various weaving techniques, the creativity and ingenuity of the Chinese ancestors have amazed the world. The silk, silk, silk, satin, brocade, embroidery and yarn among them have been handed down to the present with their complementary and distinctive classical skills.

　　 Damask, Soft texture, characterized by twill. It is strong against wind.

　　 Luo, Lightweight, soft and breathable. It is the natural air conditioner of the ancients.

　　 Silk, It is a plain weave of silk thread, thick, soft and smooth.

　　 Satin, The weaving rules are complex, with warp and weft twill interwoven. Very smooth to the touch.

　　 Brocade, It is an ancient high-end fabric, interwoven by various colors and threads, with rich patterns. Dragon robes, official uniforms and important decorations commonly used by emperors in ancient times reflect their noble status and gorgeous effects. At present, there are Nanjing Cloud Brocade, Suzhou Song Brocade, Sichuan Shu Brocade, etc.

　　 Embroidery, The technique is very beautiful. One piece of silk can be cut into 128 pieces, which is almost invisible to the naked eye. Chinese craftsmen's double-sided embroidery and imitation cultural relics embroidery make the world marvel.

　　 Yarn, It is the lightest fabric. Thin as cicada wings means yarn. Among them, Xiangyun gauze, which has the name of soft gold, is the most precious. It is woven with pure plant dyes after three washes, nine boiling and eighteen drying.

Song brocade: brocade, silk, national color, glorious age

Song brocade, with its gorgeous color and exquisite patterns, has the reputation of "the crown of beauty". This skill has been lost in the long history for thousands of years, but it has been recovered with the unremitting efforts of the inheritors of intangible cultural heritage. It has become a "new national tide" flying into the homes of ordinary people.

Suzhou City, with a history of 2500 years, is a blend of ancient and modern times, telling Chinese stories through the ages. The Suzhou Silk Museum on Renmin Road welcomes tourists from all over the world every day. The ancient looms are demonstrating the Song brocade weaving skills that have been passed down for thousands of years.

Suzhou Song Brocade, originated in the Spring and Autumn Period, was formed in the Southern Song Dynasty and flourished in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. It is exquisite in texture and unique in craftsmanship, and has the beauty of "living colors and fragrance". Song brocade is based on twill weave, and uses longitude and latitude lines to show ground patterns and patterns. Its shape is complex and changeable, its composition is delicate and beautiful, and its color is simple and elegant.

Tourist Zheng Wenyu: It is obviously made of silk thread, but the feeling it weaves is like that of drawing a dragon or a phoenix. It is glittering, which is beyond some imagination.

Tourist Yang Fei: This is the first time to see such a big loom. The wisdom of the ancients is really great.

On the side of Suzhou Silk Museum, in an inconspicuous small building, it is also busy. Qian Xiaoping, 86, the national representative successor of Song brocade weaving skills, comes here almost every morning to research and develop Song brocade, guide students, and receive visitors from all over the country. These guests are all attracted to the research and development of Song brocade.

Zhou Jiang, General Manager of Zhou's Plate Making Club in Suzhou, Jiangsu Province: There are also problems in the process. The other thing is that the products on the market are relatively simple now. He wants to help us develop a new product through Teacher Qian.

In the 20th century, the craftsmanship of Song brocade was almost lost. In order to save, protect and promote the traditional Chinese silk culture and skills, Qian Xiaoping kept running. In 1989, Suzhou Silk Museum, the first professional silk museum in China, officially opened. At the same time, Qian Xiaoping is still engaged in another work that she thinks is most valuable, restoring ancient silk relics.

Qian Xiaoping, the national representative inheritor of the Song brocade weaving technique, said: "Because our silk theory has been handed down from generation to generation by craftsmen, inheritance should first work out the original thing. With replicas, many experts and scholars, many factories need to study, and then go to restore the inheritance, there can be a real object."

Over the past 30 years, Qian Xiaoping has cooperated with the National Museum, Qinghai Museum, Xinjiang Museum, etc. to study and restore more than 20 ancient silk relics of different times. These include the Shang Dynasty "Shang silk" unearthed in Dasikong Village, Anyang, the Warring States "pagoda shaped brocade" and "dance animal brocade" unearthed in Tomb No. 1 of Mashan, Jiangling, Hubei, the Eastern Han "longevity and great benefit for descendants brocade" and "five-star oriental benefit for China brocade" unearthed in Minfeng, Xinjiang.

Qian Xiaoping, the national representative inheritor of the Song brocade weaving technique: I don't have any material objects or materials. I just see a picture or a small piece of debris. Then I want to make it. I want to know what its structure is and what its materials are. This is extremely difficult.

·In 2006, "Song Brocade Weaving Skill" was selected into the national intangible cultural heritage list

·Selected as intangible cultural heritage of mankind in 2009

Although various auras of Song brocade surround her, Qian Xiaoping knows that if she wants to inherit this skill, she must let Song brocade be used and enter the people's life. However, it is impossible to promote the manual weaving of Song brocade, which can produce more than ten centimeters a day for one person.

Qian Xiaoping said, "I recorded my knowledge correctly in my book" Chinese Song Brocade ", so that it can be spread, and people can follow my book and open source. Once it is done on a computer loom, it will blossom all over the country."

With the continuous technological innovation, many processes of traditional Song brocade weaving from jacquard weaving technology to production and manufacturing are gradually replaced by mechanized and computer production lines, and Qian Xiaoping has also turned more attention to inheritance and innovation. In her studio, the Mesozoic and post-00s are injecting new vitality into Song brocade.

Shen Zhixian, a municipal representative inheritor of Song brocade weaving skills, said: "In terms of traditional skills, young people will have some innovations and ideas, including some combination with the latest modern skills, such as AI technology, and digital re creation of our patterns."

While Qian Xiaoping's studio was carrying out digital protection and inheritance for the weaving skills of Song brocade, Song brocade, a modern production line in Shengze, Wujiang, a major textile town 50 kilometers away, was being shaped and launched at a speed of 20 meters per day for each loom.

Wu Jianhua, Chairman of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co., Ltd.: Although we made tens of millions last year, we spent nearly hundreds of millions last year. We purchased many new equipment and built new smart factories.

Behind the willingness to invest in additional capacity is the popularity of the "new national trend" in recent years. Among the more than 2500 textile enterprises in Shengze Town, Suzhou City, many have transformed into Song brocade businesses.

Consumer Xiong Ying: I think it is beautiful and comfortable to wear out, and it represents a heritage of our Chinese culture.

In order to better serve consumers, enterprises also continue to innovate and make breakthroughs in technology.

Wu Jianhua, Chairman of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Science, Technology and Culture Co., Ltd.: This Song brocade fabric has undergone some special three prevention treatments, namely, water, oil and fire prevention. After the "three prevention" treatment, mineral water and soy sauce were poured on, and then wiped off.

Develop new products, innovate patterns and styles; Song brocade clothing, Song brocade tie, Song brocade cultural creation. With the ingenuity of designers and modern production lines, this millennium skill is integrated into thousands of households.

Wu Jianhua, Chairman of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Science, Technology and Culture Co., Ltd.: The culture behind it is really moving. Our cultural confidence is getting stronger and stronger, and our industry must be stronger and stronger.

(Source: CCTV News Client)