How Can The Spirit Of Craftsmen Continue In The Industrial Age Of Seeking Fast And Seeking New Products?
In the "species" studio, the students are seriously studying.
Core hints:
At present, the whole society is highly concerned about the artisans' spirit, and on the other hand, some old handicrafts are declining.
How can the craftsman spirit of slow working and meticulous work continue in the fast industrial era?
Many young people in Zhejiang are chasing their dream of their own hands with their youthful enthusiasm and creativity.
They respect tradition but do not stick to tradition. They aim at innovation, but they know how to consolidate their skills by practicing hard day after day.
They are vigorous new craftsmen, and also the future stars made in China.
04, 12 (reporter Lu Yao) grinding, pporting, flying, sewing...
The day after 90, a little cobbler Ye Wen often started from the "unique martial arts" in the workplace.
In the era of faster and faster pace of life, it is necessary to spend a few days or even weeks to produce a wallet and a card sleeve with all the energy.
At the moment, there are such a group of young people in Hangzhou, adhering to the attitude of excellence, condensing experience, seeking ingenuity, showing us the beauty of hand making, and making the leather handicraft of this durable handicraft shine with new light and creativity.
A sheet of leather
Encapsulate life philosophy
A generous workbench, a texture rule.
Cowhide
A few homemade leather cutting tools...
This is the 30 year old handmade leather enthusiast Fedi who has close contact with several items every day.
In 2012, when he graduated from college, he gave up his routine duties and returned to Jiande to open a restaurant.
Besides operating food and drink, he came into contact with some hand sewing leather works under the chance coincidence, and liked this craft at once.
At that time, there were not many people who made hand-made leather goods in China. Most enthusiasts could only learn themselves by buying professional books or searching information on the Internet. Sometimes even skin making tools need to be made by themselves.
"For example, I usually use the mosaic knife of the mosaic pattern, because it involves the roasting of steel, I have undergone more than 10 repeated attempts, it takes more than a month to complete."
He said.
Now, spread out a whole piece.
Leather material
Freddy can know where it is from a touch, whether it belongs to vegetable tannin or wax.
What he wants to do is to wake up the memory of leather and make them into products suitable for building.
"Skin has the same temperament as human beings."
Before making skin, he said, first of all, feel the texture of the skin and choose the best quality part on a leather surface.
brand
A whole skin can only make one or two small wallets, the material loss rate is particularly large.
From a raw and complete leather material to a delicate and complete work, we need to experience nearly ten processes such as typing, cutting, cutting, sewing, polishing and sealing.
In order to make the work more elaborate, many steps need to be repeated several times, which is time-consuming and laborious.
People who strive for excellence, even if they are just making small items like a card bag, will spend 35 days repeating their work.
Why spend so much time and energy to engage in a work that is out of line with the mass production era? Fei Di said that he remembered that Salvatore Ferragamo's top craftsmen Filippo Picone once said that behind every handmade work there is a unique story, which may be the biggest difference between the leather products produced by pure handicraft and the finished products.
After these paranoid preferences, we stick to the persistence of every conscientious person.
But Fedi also has his own idea: "now, we can easily go to extremes, or abandon old things, add all modern elements, or stubbornly stick to traditional handicraft industry, and get paid too often."
He believes that young people play with leather products, not only to inherit the skills of the older generation, but also to make new changes in this traditional art to add their own design and creativity, so that it can shine new vitality.
A love affair
Focus on excellence
Just as Freddy expected, some younger, little post-90s small cobbler is gradually rising, which has placed more possibilities in the industry.
When graduation is coming, most people are thinking about the future. Ye Wen, a senior student in fashion design at Zhejiang University of science and technology, firmly chooses the way out in the future -- making hand-made leather goods.
In the third year of college, she spent half a year in exchange study at Tainan applied science and Technology University, followed by "free" manual leather goods courses for one semester.
"Taiwan's hand-made leather products have a relatively good learning environment, and some schools have established specialized specialties.
From production to design, all students are willing to act on their own.
Ye Wen said that the school will also hold a manual market on a regular basis to facilitate students to buy Leather and hardware, and the price is also very affordable.
In those six months, she learned two handbag making techniques and moved into a new world of hand-made leather products.
After returning to Zhejiang, Ye Wen built a small workroom for himself and spent a lot of time in it every day.
When working, ten fingers are worn out, and the long time suture leads to lumbago and backache.
She always felt that there seemed to be a kind of magic that appealed to her to beat and beat every day.
In the past year, she has made more than 20 handbags.
Big enough to hold a doctor's bag for a computer, so small that only a few chain cards can be placed. Every piece of leather is condensed into one's own efforts.
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And her fascination with hand-made leather has also attracted family members' doubts.
On one occasion, ye had not even opened the fingerprint lock on his door because he had worn leather on his finger.
At this time, her father could not help complaining. "You spend ten and a half months on every bag, not only can you earn money, but you also get scarred yourself."
But in the young Ye Wen's view, it's not time to worry about gains and losses.
What she wants to do is to lay a solid foundation, win the guidance of professionals with faith and accumulation, and then search for breakthroughs and innovations in handcraftsmanship.
She said that the domestic handmade leather enthusiasts are still imitating the stages of the classic styles of foreign brands, and have fewer designs.
So she also tried to use the advantage of fashion design, playing the edition herself, and adding fashionable and practical design elements in some common leather styles to become a unique work.
"To be a good little cobbler, next step is to look forward to becoming a leather designer and create a brand with Chinese characteristics."
Speaking of the future goal, the little girl smiled confidently.
Because she knows clearly that today's tireless adherence is to fill the gap of mechanical manufacturing and create more outstanding works of originality.
A dream
Reshaping China made
As a matter of fact, this traditional handicraft of "earning no money" in Ye Wen's father's mouth has helped some young people dig into the first pot of gold after entering the society.
Come to the "seed" studio in Bai Le Qiao village, Hangzhou, with tools placed neatly on the white walls.
On the other side of the room is a row of worktables, and a few young people beat or cut them in front of the table.
The person in charge here is Ding Jia Hu, who was born in 1991, and has been in the industry for more than four years.
"Giving fish to a man is better than giving him a fish.
The threshold of hand-made leather goods is not high. Several tools and several pieces of leather can be used freely.
In the view of Ding Jia lake, it was because of the unique charm of hand-made leather products that he opened the studio with his classmates after graduation from environmental art design, offering all kinds of manual courses from zero to enthusiasts.
In addition to his own teaching, he also has Lin Jie, a textile major in the same school, and Jiang Wei, a jewelry specialist in the Chinese Academy of fine arts.
How can we popularize hand-made leather products so that more people can enjoy it?
"Copying an Hermes is not our goal. It is important to develop a unique idea for everyone to feel their creativity.
So we do not sell works, we only sell lessons.
Ding Jia Hu said that after continuous exploration, they thought of a better way of integration.
Now, in addition to the traditional hand-made leather courses, the "species" has added the tie dyeing and paste dyeing technology in leather, adding rock elements into the design of leather jewelry.
The 3 young people played their professional roles and integrated their preferences to make the studio sound and vivid.
Today, the little workshop, led by post-90s small cobbler, is about to celebrate its first birthday. More than one hundred students have been knocking and beating their own "exclusive works" here.
"Relying on hobbies to support themselves, my mother is no longer worried about my plaything."
Ding Jia Lake humorously said.
This is not all the change in the format of handmade leather goods.
According to Ding Jiahu, some young forces collide and play together and "explode" more chemical effects.
Half a month ago, a huge "no space" opened in Hangzhou's Yangjia Pai Lou block, which was built illegally in the past.
The more than 3000 square meter new space is divided into 4 parts: studio, exhibition hall, reception room and designer's art space. It can undertake multiple functions from artistic creation, production completion and exhibition.
In the preparatory period of nearly a year, "no space" has gathered many young and cutting-edge artists through the way of crowd raising, so that all kinds of art such as leather goods, wood art, pottery, painting and so on can be happily played together here.
"This is a space for imagination and creativity to make room for opportunities."
Guo Guo, a 29 year old founder, has not graduated from the Dijon Academy of Fine Arts in France.
During his 3 years of studying in France, he visited many European artists' studios, but what attracted him most was his public art studio.
More than 100 square meters were filled with machines of various kinds of hardware and carpentry. Artists and college students gathered together. Jazz echoed in their ears. Some wore work clothes and wore masks to work. Some people drank red wine with bare arms.
"All creativity associated with dreams can be reactivated, discovered, activated, and realized."
Guo did not say that they were determined to build the most professional and dynamic young artists and designers incubators.
"I hope you can have a full desire to create, unlimited artistic ideas, an impulse to lift your sleeves, and hope that more and more people will rebuild their dreams here and create a new chapter in China's manufacturing."
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