Sun Ruizhe: Deconstructing New Fashion, New Design And New Business
It is a great pleasure to attend the Design Summit of China Textile Innovation annual conference in Shenzhen big wave, which is full of fashion vitality and infinite creativity. In the half of the year of gengzi, along with the strategic achievements of epidemic prevention and control in China, the production order was basically restored, the domestic demand market gradually recovered, and the main economic indicators of the industry improved marginally. However, the industry still faces many severe challenges. Innovation and change and survival of the fittest have become the "standard configuration" action for enterprises to accumulate development capital and create competitive advantages.
Only by clarifying the development trend and finding the right path, can we carry out intelligent game with external uncertainty and obtain the certainty of development. With this forum, we will deconstruct the new features of "new fashion", "new design" and "new commerce" in the context of textile and garment industry.
1、 Three new features of fashion
1. Reverse connection from life to production
The first feature of new fashion is that it reverses the traditional resource orientation. Life style based on personalized demand is leading the evolution of production, reconstructing the flexible supply chain based on rapid response and effective capacity, and promoting the precise matching and value integration between the supply side and the demand side.
With the functions of self perception, self-learning, self decision-making, self-implementation and self-adaptive, the new intelligent manufacturing, which has the functions of "small batch, multi variety, high-quality and fast delivery", is becoming the fashion expression of the textile and garment industry in the production link.
2. Accelerating the transformation from consumption to green
The second feature of new fashion lies in the deep transformation from consumptive fashion to "green fashion" characterized by sustainable development, and gradually getting rid of the social image of high pollution, high consumption and high emission borne by traditional fashion industry.
The green fashion of textile and garment industry is reflected in taking green raw materials, green design, green production and green consumption as the starting point, continuously promoting the manufacturing of the whole industrial chain to be efficient, clean, low-carbon and recyclable, producing and advocating more use of high-quality ecological textile products to meet people's needs for beautiful ecological environment. With the continuous elimination of backward production capacity, the comprehensive energy consumption per unit product of the industry has been effectively reduced, the water reuse rate has been continuously improved, and the total pollutant emission has been greatly reduced. The industrial system of waste textile recycling and reuse is forming.
3. From Body to body group Deep fusion of body
The third feature of new fashion is the pan fashion ecology formed by the deep integration of individuals and groups. Only by integrating into the group, can individuals obtain the supporting advantages of deep correlation. By highlighting their own symbolic significance, individuals can promote the expansion and regeneration of Pan fashion ecology of the group.
The establishment of Pan fashion ecology is the integration and emergence of new fashion technologies, new models, new formats and new mechanisms. It is also a comprehensive integration of a series of complex fashion elements, such as fashion brands, fashion designers, fashion events, fashion talent training system, fashion industry public service platform, fashion industry cluster, fashion city, etc. it is also the fashion industry and film and television industry with textile and clothing as the main body The integrated development of music, finance, science and technology, jewelry, tourism, urban construction and other fields.
2、 Three characteristics of "new design"
1. Design is productivity
The integration of new design, creativity and productivity is the integration of new-type design, innovation and culture. Design, as a new productivity system composed of individuals, enterprises and society, has dual attributes of material productivity and spiritual productivity. Design is not only "metaphysical", but also to create the economic value of "grounding". "New design" has ubiquitous permeability, creativity intensive normality and constantly upgraded technology.
According to statistics, design creates more value in the non consumer goods industry, and 68% of the design takes place in the aviation, banking and transportation industries. In the consumer goods industry, the way design creates value is becoming more digital. Under the comprehensive influence of cognition and psychology in the fields of economy, society, politics and culture, the design of contemporary products is a multi prism. We should make further effective use of the research results of big data, pay attention to the changes of life style, pay attention to the research of popular trends, and give high-quality and high-level presentation of product design through the precise positioning of designer design aesthetics.
In order to speed up the promotion of design as the driving force of productivity, the Ministry of industry and information technology has announced 46 textile and garment creative design pilot parks (platforms), with 6100 design institutions, 16000 offline textile and garment designers, and 18000 online contracted textile and garment designers. At the same time, a number of textile industry design centers established by China Textile Industry Federation came into being, such as Huafu fashion, wanshili, GELIS, yizhihui, Boyang, etc.
2. Simplicity of design
This epidemic is a turning point in the new design. The realistic crisis and challenge let us usher in an era of "simple" design. Of course, this "simplicity" is first built on the achievements of the development of contemporary science and technology and design, but abandoning the "superfluous" of dazzling technology, the extravagant and conspicuous design will be alienated. In 1919, the direct reconstruction of the architectural style of Bauhaus was like the creation of a new style of everyday use in 1919.
In the post epidemic era, the simplicity of design has become more important. On the one hand, it is embodied in the stability of product quality and the humanization of use function. The pursuit of "quality" is the bottom line that the industry follows the normal value creation logic. On the other hand, it is reflected in the reasonable matching of cost performance, filtering out the price bubble and taking off the concept coat. The design style is more plain, not deliberately artificial and not too showy. It reflects the modern design "simple but not crude", "return to the nature of simplicity" Aesthetics.
3. Design synergy
Recently, Chinese clothing brands have put forward the motion of "cross-border joint brand", which conveys the demand for collaboration of new design and the due meaning of the activity and open spirit of the fashion industry itself. The synergy can be the cross-border cooperation and integration between the clothing industry and other industries, or the integration and reasonable combination of internal creative resources in the clothing industry.
Of course, the cross-border cooperation is not only reflected in such a specific action. More representative is that garment enterprises use information technology to form a collaborative cloud platform for design, production, management and other aspects. On the one hand, designers cooperate to complete the distributed product design and development in different space-time dimensions, and different enterprises in different places and multi-point cooperate to complete product manufacturing; on the other hand, the collaboration between design and external consumers makes it possible for the personalized customization mode driven by customers. Such as millet fans interactive mode, red collar clothing mass customization mode.
3、 Three characteristics of "new commerce"
1. From o2o to OAO
An important feature of new business is channel innovation: the transformation from o2o (online to offline) to OAO (online and offline). That is, to realize the integration of physical stores, e-commerce PC terminals, e-commerce mobile terminals and information media customers, all channels, all categories, all time, full experience, full data, and all links, so as to fit in with the new consumption habits, detonate new consumption contacts, and transform new consumption values.
Specifically, the core of o2o is to bring online consumers to physical stores, so that users can pay online and enjoy services offline. OAO is an integrated "double store" business model integrating offline physical stores and online stores. Through human-computer interaction and human-computer interaction, OAO realizes online and offline information integration, transaction integration, settlement integration and user integration of physical commerce.
In the future, the use of VR (virtual reality), AR (augmented reality) and MR (hybrid reality) technology will give new energy to the traditional retail of clothing industry. According to the survey "augmented reality is changing the retail industry", 41% of respondents expect to visit retail stores through AR; 33% of consumers say that they are more likely to purchase goods through ar preview.
Amazon has created a new type of supermarket with "Amazon go" and "no queuing and no checkout"; the "HEMA Xiansheng" invested by Alibaba is not a traditional supermarket chain + app, but a new retail born after the reconstruction of supply chain, category and service.
It can be predicted that more and more clothing enterprises will set up smart retail stores offline, take consumers as the center, and build new "people, goods and markets" with the help of Internet, Internet of things, big data, etc., which will provide customers with more fashionable experience and more personalized services from the aspects of information collection, product display, collocation recommendation, virtual experience, self-service settlement, etc Business.
From store driven to data driven
A significant feature of new business is data driven, rather than through physical stores in the physical space of regional distribution, to achieve brand expansion. Data driven breaks the channel classification in the real world, presents a decentralized and flat marketing pattern, and makes the retail scene a high-density, embedded and invisible existence around consumer life.
On the one hand, data-driven "new infrastructure" in the body of fashion brands.
The business renewal with data and intelligence as the key has become the "new infrastructure" promoted by fashion brands. Digital reality technology, including AR / VR , mixed reality, etc., to help users break through the shackles of keyboard and screen, break the traditional spatial boundaries, and let people interact with underlying technologies naturally, instinctively, or even subconsciously; cognitive technology personalizes and scene human-computer interaction, drives business processes through customized language or image information, and realizes unattended; the use of big data can realize brand realization With the possibility of tracking users according to the geographical location and jumping out of the inherent space-time constraints driven by physical stores, the viscosity between brands and consumers in the new business environment will become "all the time, everywhere, and everything".
On the other hand, the rationality of data driven fashion brands in retail decision-making level.
Through the integration of different types of effective data, the decision-making of clothing brand using data, including product development, production planning, goods matching, order replenishment, online and offline marketing and brand promotion strategy, all show better than the traditional decision-making model based on intuition and experience. At the same time, data can be used to define and measure the consumer experience at the brand touch point, and the data can be used to define clear enterprise key performance indicators (KPIs). The new fashion business driven by data shows a more rational and stable evolutionary constitution.
3. From inside retail to border retail
Another new feature of new commerce lies in the integration of cross-border and breaking inertia. With the combination of content, entertainment and virtual reality, there is unlimited commercial possibility of instant link with all carriers with data identification function and transaction attributes. There will be more and more "barbaric clothing industry" outside the door.
With the rapid development of border free retail mode, the connection between clothing brand and retail market has been deeply adjusted. New models, new formats and new attempts such as scene economy, online celebrity economy and sharing economy have developed rapidly, and the mode innovation of live delivery with goods, community marketing and online exhibition has effectively made up for the blank of offline channel suspension during the epidemic period.
Inman is a case of growth against the trend. During the epidemic period, yinman recruited 10000 "yinman pushers" from the community to promote yinman products through various channels with the help of wechat private domain traffic, and can enjoy 20% of the actual amount of promotion commission. On February 5th, only about 10% of the stores opened, but they quickly attracted 65000 customers. As of March 11, the sales volume of Inman online app mall was close to 18 million, equivalent to the annual sales in 2019. This new retail sales model, which defines "productivity for all" in a special period, reflects the resource integration ability of Chinese fashion brands.
In the face of changes in new business, the most important thing is to dare to challenge the inherent Inertia Law, study new consumer preferences, recognize the different algorithms, techniques and playing methods behind boundless retail, combine their own core foundation, learn from others' strong points, and form a whole.
4、 Four relations to be grasped in development
1. Separation and integration -- the relationship between division of labor and coordination
On the one hand, we should realize the transformation from "boundary" thinking to "integration" thinking.
Under the premise of regional opening and opening-up, the two-way cooperation between the East and the West should be formed to promote the mutual development of regional economy. We will further promote the integration of industry and finance, integration of industrialization and industrialization, civil military integration, and technology integration, and promote a high degree of coordination of resources and capabilities among countries, regions, industries and enterprises. We will accelerate the construction of an industrial system of coordinated development of textile manufacturing, scientific and technological innovation, modern finance and human resources.
On the other hand, we should realize the transformation from "exclusive" thinking to "sharing" thinking.
In October last year, the Ministry of industry and information technology issued the "on accelerating the cultivation of new modes and formats of shared manufacturing" According to the document "guidance on promoting the high quality development of manufacturing industry", it is proposed that by 2022, 20 sharing manufacturing demonstration platforms with strong innovation ability and great industry influence will be formed; 50 shared manufacturing demonstration projects with good development prospects and strong driving effect will be promoted and supported; and by 2025, the development of shared manufacturing will reach a new level.
Shared manufacturing is the result of the expansion of the concept of sharing economy from the consumption fields like ofo and Uber to the production field. It is a new mode of production, which gathers the scattered and idle production capacity around the production related links, carries out reasonable division of labor, elastic matching and dynamic sharing between the demanders. In the past, such agglomeration and matching may be difficult. However, mobile Internet technology will eliminate the information asymmetry between the supply and demand sides of resources, accurately locate idle resources, and form efficient connections between owners and demanders. Such a connection will promote the vertical and horizontal integrated innovation of the whole industrial chain, and stimulate new incremental markets through intensive land resources.
The thinking of integration and sharing changes from focusing on competition to seeking coordination, breaking through organizational boundaries, sharing resources and realizing value-added. Specifically, it will also bring the development opportunity of symbiosis, sharing and win-win for the construction of intelligent manufacturing standard system, the interconnection of intelligent manufacturing system, the research and development of common technology and key technology related to intelligent manufacturing of textile and garment, and the cultivation of public service platform of intelligent manufacturing of textile and garment based on industrial cluster.
2. Old and new -- the relationship between inheritance and Transcendence
Today, when various cultural trends of thought in the world blend, collide and influence each other, "cultural consciousness" and "cultural self-confidence" are becoming more basic, deeper and more lasting connotative cultivation and endogenous power for the industry to promote new fashion and new design around the goal of fashion development.
On the one hand, it has become a new social fashion to re recognize national culture, review historical classics and revive traditional skills. The unique concept, wisdom, bearing and verve of traditional Chinese culture are inexhaustible, which lays the historical foundation for Chinese design to explore unique style identification and form the contemporary Oriental aesthetic system.
On the other hand, it is necessary to activate the traditional consumption and the aesthetic innovation. Innovation, which embodies people's cognitive ability and practical ability, is not a simple material reproduction of predecessors, but an intangible continuation of the creative spirit. Innovation must achieve transcendence, which is different from the traditional storage mode, and requires a new operating system and a new operating interface.
It should be noted that traditional handicraft technology and modern production mode are not antagonistic in the era of intelligent manufacturing, but form a benign complementary relationship - organically combine the scientificity and accuracy of mechanized production with the difference and individuation of manual production, so as to realize creative transformation of the characteristics of mechanized production and manual technology in complementary. To promote the extension of producer services to brand and high-end value chain, and to promote the transformation of life service industry to fine and high-quality are the diversified market demands and the significance of completing this complementarity.
3. Light and heavy -- the relationship between tools and goals
In the era of digital fashion, the digital economy will deeply empower the textile and garment industry. Digital economy collects, processes and applies information at a speed close to real-time, which provides an important power lever for the textile and garment industry to build a fast response supply chain and service chain, to speed up the optimization of supply, production and marketing and to speed up the logistics speed.
5g technology innovation is expected to bring new opportunities of "light". The live e-commerce will usher in a new round of remodeling and upgrading in terms of clarity improvement, immersive experience and full scene live broadcast. For example, the maturity of 5g and AR / VR technology makes it possible to achieve realistic online dressing and make-up, and obtain immersive shopping experience.
What needs to be emphasized is that in addition to "light", we should keep the same emphasis on quality, ingenuity and value. The reason lies in the fact that once again, in addition to the rapid growth of high-quality products, it means that the rapid growth of high-quality products is not guaranteed by the rapid growth of high-quality products The "top priority" of development.
4. Benefit and righteousness -- the relationship between development and responsibility
"Only sincerity can break the hypocrisy of the world, but the reality can break the void of the world." When the industry goes too fast, we should remember that the soul should keep pace with the pace, and the responsibility should empower the development of the industry. The English for "responsibility" is responsibility, which is composed of response and ability. Responsibility is the ability to respond. We need to balance the "interests" and "righteousness" in the new fashion, new design and new business era with the goodness of responsibility.
On the one hand, it is necessary to establish the traceability mechanism of product quality and safety in supply chain.
First of all, the whole chain traceability system from the brand end to the supply side, which can be traced back to the source, the destination and the responsibility can be traced, so as to improve the level of consumption safety. Secondly, the sustainable development of the supply chain is guaranteed through "responsibility transparency", and the information of the supply chain in the aspects of responsibility performance, product environmental footprint, labor rights and interests protection, environmental protection and consumption safety is disclosed.
On the other hand, it is necessary to avoid fair competition between monopoly and monopoly.
For nearly a year, the U.S. Department of justice and the Federal Trade Commission have been investigating whether companies such as Google and Facebook Inc. have committed antitrust violations. During the outbreak, Amazon's sales rose 6% to a record $75.5 billion. What needs to be vigilant is that in the long run, the weakening of market competition will be detrimental to consumers and employment.
At present, the form, content, structure, layout and radiation force of oligopoly of e-commerce platform have undergone deep evolution. Industry self-discipline convention is important but not enough to restrict oligopoly. We should speed up the improvement of legal supervision and management system related to e-commerce platform, and constantly balance the interest relationship between oligopoly and fair and fair competition of e-commerce platform, so as to maintain the market competition order and protect the interests of small and medium-sized enterprises.
"In ancient times, those who set great aspirations not only have extraordinary talents, but also have perseverance.". Extraordinary times, very tribulations, create extraordinary heroes, extraordinary brands. Let's encourage you! In 2020, let's tide over difficulties together and create brilliance again! The charm of fashion, the belief of fashion and the fighting spirit of fashion will last forever!
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