Does Dior Men'S Wear Line Change To The Street Fashion?

Analysts said that the traditional brand of men's wear lines began to shuffle, and the aesthetic trend towards the streets was a major trend.

In March 19th, Kris Van Assche confirmed her departure from Dior Homme and ended his 11 year art director's career in the brand. Kim Jones, former chief executive of Louis Vuitton Menswear, will take over his position as the new artistic director of menswear.

Previously, with the joint name of Louis Vuitton and Supreme, Kim Jones is considered one of the few designers who can control luxury brands and street brands.

This trend is seen by industry analysts as an indication of the restructuring of the traditional leading luxury brands. From the artistic director, they are striving to catch up with the trend of street aesthetics.

The appointment of Kim Jones is the first major decision of the new president and chief executive Pietro Beccari since he took office six weeks ago, after he worked in Fendi and Louis Vuitton.

Jones will take office in April 1st and will launch its first design series for Dior Homme in June.

His accession was not thought of by the industry. The women's daily newspaper reported last autumn that he was in contact with Versace, or that he might succeed Christopher Bailey to join Burberry, whose position was recently confirmed by Riccardo Tisci.

 

Naomi Campbell, Kim Jones and Kate Moss in 2018 autumn winter men's wear Conference

"I am glad that Kim Jones can join Dior. We have had experience in Louis Vuitton. I appreciate his creative perspective. He can always combine his understanding of modern art with the re creation of fashion house genes."

Beccari told the women's Wear Daily that he was confident that Jones could recreate the new universe in Dior Homme.

Although Jones has joined the design team of famous designers such as Maria Grazia Chiuri, Victoire de Castellane, Jones is somewhat different from others.

Not to mention the intimate relationship between him and the street brands, just 345000 Instagram fans and celebrity friends including Kate Moss and David Beckham are enough to bring about a conceptual shock to Dior's old fashion house. After all, Dior men have been staying in the image of Hedi Slimane and created slender tailoring.

 

Dior Homme in Hedi Slimane Era

Dior Homme in the period of Van Assche

Jones is a graduate of Saint Martin college in England. From his fashion history, it can be said to be legendary.

John Galliano plays the role of a photographer for his graduation works. He also has a men's wear brand and is famous for sports street style. After publishing eight series, Jones was seen by Dunhill and served as creative director from 2008 to 2011. In 2006, he was awarded the title of "designer of the year's men's clothing" in Britain. Besides, he had worked experience in Alexander McQueen, Mulberry, Hugo Boss and Umbro.

Louis Vuitton and Supreme cooperation series

Floriane de Saint Pierre, who runs a same name consulting company in Paris, said that the trend of luxury brands in the head reflects that the new generation of men's wear designers are gradually shaping, and their style must be more biased towards Street leisure styles. "New and talented designers and their brands are beginning to emerge, such as Ami, Virgil Abloh, Martine Rose and Craig Green, and their design will guide the arrival of traditional brand changes."

"For these brands, the ability to create a culture that resonates with contemporary young people is a decisive factor in their choice of designers," Saint Pierre said.

Mary Gallagher, a European partner at Martens&Heads, headquartered in New York, agrees with this view: "it's really important to hire a reputable designer in the streets."

She believes that brands such as Dior have become mature in women's clothing and accessories. Men's clothing is the next high ground for new customers, higher consumer loyalty and competitive advantages. At the moment, sportswear, street style, customization and high street fashion collide with each other, making men's clothing a field that can't be missed. Dior obviously wants to take advantage of Kim Jones's next bet.

LVMH has been promoting men's clothing business recently.

A while ago, Hedi Slimane has just returned to the group as the creative director of Celine, and for the first time extended the men's wear line for the 73 year old brand. The first series of Slimane will debut in Paris fashion week this autumn.

In addition, LVMH is also investing heavily in menswear brand Berluti, now leading the design team by Haider Ackermann and Loro Piana, and promoting the next phase of growth by hiring a new CEO.

And after Kim Jones leaves, who will take over Louis Vuitton's men's wear line has become the focus of the industry.

It is reported that the company has contacted with Off-White designer Abloh and Lanvin Lucas Ossendrijver.

Different from Kai Yun group's practice, LVMH has always insisted on hiring different creative directors for the brand men's and women's assembly line, apart from Alessandro Michele's one person's thorough reform of Gucci.

Although this internal setup runs counter to the marketing principle of the entire fashion industry -- a unified brand image, it does not affect the development of LVMH group's brand.

At the moment, the brand creative director not only assumes the responsibility of design, but also assumes the responsibility of the brand image ambassador. Under the online and offline conditions, the strategy of LVMH has its advantages.

When two people come to represent the brand, in the ideal situation, both sides can establish contacts with consumers, and can separately concentrate on the market segments, so as to better cater to their audience consumers.

On Monday, New York Times fashion director Vanessa Friedman discussed the impact of Jones's accession to Dior on Grazia Chiuri. She said that since the CEO Pietro Beccari made this decision shortly after entering the office, he did not fear the decision to make a big change. So far, Grazia Chiuri has not been able to win the unanimous approval of the industry.