Chinese Designer Brand Has Built Up Half Of Tmall'S Double 11.

Shanghai Oriental Sports Center,

The global tide is on the way.

Shangguan Zhe, Ji Cheng, Han Wen, Helen Lee, Kong Jingfu, etc.

Bring their designer brand to the scene.

The Chinese designer brand, once a group with less than 1% survival rate in statistics, is now supporting almost half the sky of the tide.

However, this is not a sudden event, but an outbreak of consumption and supply side after long storage.

I am studying at New York University.

Kong Jingfu, a management professional, is also the founder of the "hot" brand of women's shoes. He told reporters that he and his colleagues in New York had discussed the trend pageant. What is the significance of the Fashion Festival after Shanghai fashion week? The conclusion is that "Tmall game" is a "changer game".

However, designer brand wants to grow and resist.

Lv Jianmei, Meng Gu, deputy general manager of Tmall clothing, told reporters that after the sample came out, there was no money to place the order. Factories were reluctant to take orders because of a small quantity. This is the core reason why some Chinese designers can not grow up. The outbreak of designer's brand this year is a long time since designers have been developing with Tmall and made some achievements. On the other hand, Tmall has made some resources integration this year, and it will connect with the factory capacity from the back end.

Designers' "Chinese tricks"

In October 23rd, the sky was clear in Shanghai. The Tmall double 11 Fashion Festival was being staged in Shanghai Oriental Sports Center. At the scene, the designer's brand booth displayed the strong personal color of the designer.

The reporter first came to a booth full of white rabbit, Lang Xian, potato chips, which covered the elements of snacks in 80 and 90s.

This booth belongs to the designer's brand "Secret Fan" which combines the vanguard fashion elements with the traditional Chinese culture. The whole exhibition area is arranged into a small temple worshipped with the "heart and soul", similar to the Tibetan treasure Pavilion. A plucent wall is covered with an old cabinet, which displays all kinds of clothes and accessories. Consumers can scan the code in time, and the refreshment will give the audience who come to interact with the gift as a reward.

Feng Guang, one of the founder of secret fans, told reporters that the concept of "Manhan banquet", which appeared on the 2017 spring and summer season in Shanghai fashion week, was extended. The 20 new models were all owned by their children's brands.

Hundred plays are called "small fans", compared with the main brand using dim sum as the theme.

On the other hand, the brand of the main concept of social women's shoes is "hot", which simply applies the design concept of the brand Logo "honeycomb briquette" to the decoration of the whole exhibition area, and enters the exhibition area with black and convex blocks arranged on the black walls. Each block is covered with black holes like honeycomb briquette. The yellow light strikes on the thick wall, forming a modern and contemporary space-time illusion.

"We hope that on such an international stage, we can see the brand energy and design energy of China, and interpret the Chinese symbols, rather than superficial understanding."

Like Feng Guang, Kong Jingfu also chose to attract audiences to China with Chinese elements. "Chinese culture comes from life".

Kong Jingfu participated in the design and overall follow up of the whole exhibition area. He told reporters in the long run of New York that "POP-UP STORE" displayed "the Chinese elements of non appearance". Compared with the elements such as Tang costume, Hanfu and blue and white porcelain, the "honeycomb briquette" which can take up modern Chinese subculture is chosen as the design element. "The reason is that it represents the common memory of the 70, 80 and 90 generation Chinese."

Changing the rules of the game in the clothing industry

Some industry people say fashion is about desire.

In Lv Jianmei's view, the core purchasing power of designer brand comes from the consumers in Pyramid. The so-called trendsetter is the first to catch the trend of the trend.

Fashion week is held every year in spring and summer in 2 and March and autumn and winter in 9 and October. The world-famous fashion week includes Paris, Italy, Milan, London, New York, Tokyo and so on.

China Fashion Week, Hongkong fashion week and the just concluded Shanghai fashion week, as the most influential fashion week in China, tend to herald the trend and open the next season's clothing ordering.

Similar futures, fashion week is equivalent to the desire to buy the front, buying the consumer's expectations for the next season's costumes, while the Tmall double 11 trend is to digest the desire and digest the way of buying and selling, and to stimulate consumers' impulse to double 11 shopping.

Feng Guang made an analysis from the consumer side for journalists. The fashion week in Shanghai is the clothing distribution and display, more is the display design concept, the direction of one-way pmission; the trend of the festival is more focused on interaction, passing the brand culture through interaction, and pforming in the process of watching.

Compared with fashion week, Kong Jingfu believes that joining the star and international brand of the tide of ceremony, more can arouse consumer perception.

He told reporters that, compared with the fashion week, facing the business side, the tide tide can reach the consumer's influence very large and very wide. "I think it's the game changer of the fashion industry," he said. He broke the traditional fashion week's early order and purchase pattern, and enlarged the terminal consumer experience with the tide pageant, and let the brand and fashion icon stand up to express the understanding and definition of the design, and the international character of its platform is "truly putting Chinese fashion on the international stage."

When a platform is linked to the fate of the entire clothing industry, maybe it becomes the "game changer (game changer)" of Kong Jingfu and his colleagues. He said he and his team hope to push the products of the season, rather than the four seasons or even half a year before pushing the design, which can scatter the product line to every change of the season.

He said that many fashion brands in Europe and America developed a product for 14 weeks, while blanching takes 5~6 weeks. "I don't like the process of long term development, and I hope to achieve good design as soon as possible to the consumer level".

"Internet brands can breed the development of long tail brands, such as the year's" designer's brand, and now grow up, "Lv Jianmei said. The brand introduced by such a garment Professor, including two or three things, has been accompanied by Tmall designer brand for many years. This brand can meet the needs of small consumer demand, but it is not easy to survive online.

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Articulation of production demand combination

Behind the changes in the rules of the game is actually a change in the ecology of the whole Chinese designer.

Taking a look at the apparel industry as a whole, the fast fashion industry represented by ZARA is strong, and its own factories and external factories and fabric suppliers all over the world add up, forming a strong industrial chain and the right to speak of the industry.

It can be said that ZARA has grasped a key point, that is, the flexible supply chain.

For most designers, "not to mention flexible supply chains, even placing orders is a problem", Lu said, because orders are small, factories are reluctant to take orders or do not prioritize designers.

But when designers are growing stronger, Lv Jianmei told reporters that today there is a new phenomenon in the clothing market. This year, there are many B2B platforms in the market. These platforms are concentrated in Guangdong, Zhejiang and other regions, with a scale of several hundred. They are mainly divided into two categories, one is to integrate designer resources to make front-end and style, the other is to integrate a large number of back-end factory resources, some factories only make vertical fabrics such as Mao and so on, and B2B platform meets the needs of both ends.

"Designers are not very good at retail, and many designers come out with 30~40 in one season, which is too monotonous for consumers. But for brands, it is very good as a series, so many designers are more suitable for wholesale and B2B business."

Lv Jianmei explained.

For those designers who want to adhere to the independent brand line, fast docking to the required vertical fabric can get the factory's attention to the order, which is about information symmetry and industry discourse power.

And Tmall, who has been walking with designers and factories for 8 years, plays a role of connecting productivity and demand in this information gap.

"Designer brand can develop well in China, there must be resources," Lv Jianmei said. Tmall has made some resources integration this year, mainly cooperating with Amoy factories and B2B platforms.

Cooperation with the Amoy factory, through the factory information, order meeting, to connect production capacity.

Lv Jianmei said, unlike traditional ordering, the factory will bring samples, once the brand side looks at the OEM or orders directly.

At the same time, Tmall can help the designers and brands with similar orders and styles to merge orders, maximizing the utilization of factory capacity, so as to ensure the delivery date of the factory.

On the B2B side, in the past, Tmall had a close cooperation with the TP generation. It used to cooperate with big brands. Now it is willing to start supporting Chinese designers.

Similar to the Shanghai Textile Group, Shanghai Textile Group is responsible for the designer's order. The designer is only responsible for the front end design, and all the operations are wrapped by Shanghai textile group.

Lv Jianmei revealed that Tmall will also cooperate with Han Guodong gates this year and issue more in-depth solutions.

In addition to capacity, designer brand another pain point is pricing system.

"When the Chinese designer brand has not reached a certain height, the price tag has been almost the same as that of Alexander Wang or CELINE," which makes the consumer side unbearable. But behind the supply chain perspective, it is the production line of small quantity of products that can not be connected to the factory, and it can only be done by the sample room made by the sample room.

"We feel that the cooperation of Shanghai Textile Group's TP generation Shang Shang street and some designer brands is very successful." she solved the reason.

"3000 orders at a time, the order cost will come down, the designer brand price will tend to be reasonable, promote sales volume to become benign development," this is a good attempt.

In this cycle, the more proficient the factory is, the stronger the discourse power of the fabric business. Even though there is no volume of ZARA, it becomes a powerful resource supply chain.

"The tide in my eyes is not just 2C's show, actually half of the C terminal, half facing the B side", Lu fitness said, Tmall has taken the lead position in the industry today, hoping to do something for the industry.

Today, some platforms, when building designers, are often supported by designers who are famous or have resources. Even if they are not very different from commercial brands, they will be inclined to resources. As a result, the market is not high enough to recognize the designer's brand and gradually lose their enthusiasm.

"But if the platform is set up, consumers will be positive when they pay."

On the other hand, the fashion festival also gives the brand side the imagination of capital, exposing the designer's brand to the spotlight of the media.